Kumartuli is a traditional 250-year-old Heritage Potter’s Quarter in Kolkata. Kumartuli is known for its sculptural skills, where an idol is made for various festivals across India - yet also for counties around the world.  

One morning  I happened to visit to this art quarter of Kolkata. As I walked through the maze of narrow lanes densely packed with artist workshops, I began to discover a new world of art. 

Artisans are compelled to occupy pavements and extend their workshops a few yards beyond to compensate the lack of space. Idols-in-progress, sturdy frame work, moulds and other wares lying on the pavements help make these studios all the more vibrant and exciting.

These narrow lanes barely allow the passage of a hand-pulled rickshaw or a van. Yet here you can see dimly-lit potters studios succeeding one after another throughout the colony.  These studios are mostly made of bamboo and plastic sheets. 

Nearly 175 artisans live here at Kumartuli. They are popular as Pal, both a traditional and professional  last name.  The Pal families are dedicated to this traditional art work for over a couple of centuries.

It is from here that idols of various  deities make their way into Kolkata and abroad every year, specially during Bengal's famous festival Durga Puja ( worship of Goddess Durga). Moreover,

the work of these artisians include other Hindu festivals of idol worship, idols of national heroes, spiritual personalities, as well as historical figures. They have made a permanent place in Kumartuli Porter's portfolio because highly proficient artisans never miss any details or perfection. 

There is a long and layered process of making idol, and it starts with the “Kathamo” (a bamboo structure to support the idol). After the straw is methodically bound together to give shape to an idol, completion results from various mixtures of soil like Ganga Mati (mud from the bank of the Ganges River) and Path mati ( a mixture of jute particles and ganga mati ) are used for moulding the structure. 

Major festivals are held in autumn and production of idols begin as monsoon begins. Humid weather and heavy, continuous showers enhance the challenges of making the earthen goddesses. Artisans resort to driers (gas burner) and polythene sheets to cope up with the adversities posed by the monsoon.

I visited this sprawling clay studio just a few days prior to “Kali Puja” (Worship of  idol of Goddess Kali ), and noticed potters busy sculpting idols of Goddess Kali - or imparting final touches to the colorful and power packed Goddess of the Hindu mythology.

Ornamentation of the goddess play a significant role to complete the making of every idol . Craftsmen dextrous in making such props and ornaments and weapons to adorn the goddess are also busy at work in Kumartuli . Artisans make the special colours themselves. They mix Kharimati ( a special clay prepared from the sea froth) with coloring chemicals and a glue prepared from Khai-bichi or tamarind seeds, Tamarind seed powders helps to keep the colour on clay idols for a longer period of time. I also noticed some idols decked up to start their outward journey towards destination. 

The precise attention to details of the idols is thoroughly impressive. The clay artists here are an institution unto themselves. It is baffling why there has been so little documentation of this centuries-old tradition, and the lives of these artisans who silently recreate the significant manifestation of the human soul – the deities.

As I meandered through the lanes, I found art and daily life pulsating in the same space, an incredible and peaceful co-existence of two contradictory aspects of life.

The workshop studios where the artisans thrive are so confined that they seem claustrophobic. Yet they manage to sleep, cook, dine and live here without complains. Children prepare lessons for schools and even play games while helping the family carry out their struggle for bread and butter.

Most impressively, the struggle of their lives have not worn out these spirited artisans who work in such challenging situations, producing one of the finest artworks of this world.

Art lovers across the globe must not forget to pay a visit to this clay studio if they ever happen to be in this City of Joy – Kolkata. This heritage art colony has much to say to the world.

ABOUT KIMSUK

Photography & Painting have long been a pursuit of Kolkata based Kimsuk Ray. The journey of his art began in his childhood. Life to him is itself an Art. And Photography the rendezvous of ART and LIFE. Four solo exhibitions of photography of Kimsuk, had been launched at Academy of Fine Arts, Kolkata, in the year 2008, 2009,2011 & 2014. Besides this, he has participated in various group exhibitions in different galleries in Kolkata. Kimsuk bagged 2nd position in Kodak wedding photography contest in the year 2009. Kimsuk was selected by ILO for photography contest and exhibition at New Delhi in the year 2011.

A photo feature of Kimsuk published in travel mag. Turiosity online bookstore in Feb 2013. He has also been a part of several online photo exhibitions and contests. Kimsuk keeps travelling and clicking.