Bring on the night
by Keef Charles
Arriving late on account of the cold, not prepared to wait around too long in sub zero temperatures, I made it to the cross just in time to hear the tolling of the cathedral bells.
7PM the Winter Watch should be in full flow now. I trod a few paces in the direction of the town hall, from where the procession usually starts but all I could hear was faint drumming.
Retracing my steps I noticed a crowd and muffled shouts further down the main street, shouts that grew louder as I hastened toward them. I spied lights glinting off the helmeted heads of my quarry but there were too many people for me to get my shots. Determined, I eased my way between the onlookers. The Roman Centurions were here to welcome in the season of festivities. This was Saturnalia. A somewhat hoarse commander was bellowing out his message, demanding that we enjoy ourselves. Eat, drink and make merry, he intoned with throaty blessing. Roman soldiers with a particularly British humour.
Chester is a city steeped in history, and quite rightly loves to remind its townsfolk and visitors of its tradition, sometimes with a light hearted twist. Founded as a walled city and garrison of the Romans, their occupation dating to 47/48 AD, it served also as fortified defence against the Viking raids and testament to the border feuds and battles between the English and Welsh. Suffice to say, it has a colourful past.
Colourful indeed, but back in the 1400s, the Winter Watch was more than just a pageant. The City Watch, equivalent to a police force, would patrol the streets of this walled city to safeguard its security. Only when complete could the keys of the various gates be handed over and people breathe easy. Well, actually at Christmas time, rather more was at stake. The ceremony would herald the start of the Christmas banquet and celebrations.
I’d made the trip into town the previous week as well but alas, unlike last year, my shots were dismal. The 18 to 200mm zoom on my Nikon might be flexible but with the energy crisis, the lighting on the street and in shop windows has been drastically reduced, and the 3.5 to 5.6 aperture range starved my camera of light. My shots, whilst having some artistic appeal, were too blurred to be worthwhile using. Some photographers make good use of flash but it’s not my way, so I opted to go with my little used 35mm lens (50mm, allowing for my camera’s format). With severely limited framing opportunities I relied on more light from the 1.8 aperture to grab at least some usable images. I’d been eagerly awaiting this night to try out my lens.
The shots of legionnaires worked. Things got trickier though as they marched off to join the Winter Watch procession. I followed, shooting on the move with less available light but optimistic nevertheless. On arriving at the Town Hall the troop formed a ‘guard of honour’ both sides of the street and as the drumming grew louder and more distinct, the main event was underway, led by the Lord of Misrule. Hot on his heels were the Karamba Samba Band dressed as ghosts and ghouls, the Roman soldiers took their place and marched the city streets with the rest of the colourful characters in tow, including Cooks, Devils, Dragons, Angels, Fire skeletons, Ice Queens, Jack Frost, Tree of Life and a troublesome horde of skeletons, some playing Dixie music. I kept pace, found my moments and shot both the procession and those occasional onlookers who caught my eye, feeling festive and warm.
Not until they’d made their merry way up and down streets and back to the town hall, best part of an hour later, did I start to feel the cold again. A reveller from one of the many Christmas parties, stood outside in empty blue light reminded me of cold’s bite as I walked, back to find my car for the icy journey home, still smiling. A hearty experience and hopefully some worthwhile shots as well. It felt like the season of festivities had begun.
